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  /  Feature   /  抗議?暴動?面對這一線之隔的種族抗爭,時尚業應該更盡品牌所能 !

抗議?暴動?面對這一線之隔的種族抗爭,時尚業應該更盡品牌所能 !

上周26日,美國明尼蘇達州的第一大城明尼亞波利斯(Minneapolis),一名非裔男子佛洛伊德(George Floyd)在街頭上被員警以膝蓋壓制頸部,使他動彈不得,他慘叫並哀求員警:「我不能呼吸」,最後卻因警察未及時鬆開壓制,導致他當場喪失生命。種族歧視一直是美國社會長久以來的問題,而這起事故在全美各地引起了公眾的憤怒與騷亂。儘管新冠肺炎在美國地區已經造成10萬多人死亡,雖然壟罩在病毒的陰影之下,但憤怒的群眾依舊為了人權走上街頭

抗議行動蔓延了整個美國,包括洛杉磯(Los Angeles)、亞特蘭大(Atlanta)、丹佛(Denver)、休士頓(Houston),及紐約(New York)等市,發生連續4天全國性的大規模示威抗議,甚至有群眾縱火劫掠、攻擊警局,更波及鄰近商家。

抗議情形最嚴重的洛杉磯,整個西部的店面到處都有塗鴉,寫上了「從來沒有遇到一個好的警察」、「F*ck你的商場」、「GFLOYD」等抗議字眼,Gucci的商店也被寫上「吃了有錢人」這些貶低資本主義的字眼。此外許多品牌例如:Alexander McQueen、Maison Margiela、Marc Jacobs、Nordstrom及Macy’s等百貨櫥窗都傳出被打破和商品被洗劫的情形。

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WWD is covering the demonstrations and protests across the U.S. in the days after George Floyd was killed in police custody. See our complete coverage on WWD.com. Here is an excerpt from our latest story. As brands and retailers across the U.S. started to reopen after the coronavirus lockdown, chaotic protesting has forced closures and led to a great deal of damage.⁣⁣ ⁣⁣ Nationwide protests in the U.S. over the public police killing of George Floyd, who was detained for a nonviolent crime devolved over the weekend into vandalism and looting. Almost no major brand or retailer in dozens of cities was left unscathed, just as retail was beginning to reopen after months of mandated shutdowns due to the coronavirus.⁣⁣ ⁣⁣ Amid a global pandemic, record unemployment and a looming presidential election, stores from Rodeo Drive in Los Angeles to State Street in Chicago, SoHo in New York to downtown Minneapolis were graffitied, looted and in a few instances set on fire. And as of Sunday evening, the chaos was starting to begin again, with numerous stores in downtown Santa Monica and Long Beach seeing widespread looting, and protests gaining steam in New York, Minneapolis and Washington D.C., among other cities.⁣⁣ ⁣⁣ One of the worst hit areas on Saturday night was L.A., a vast city of nearly four million people, which saw a third day of protesting over the death of Floyd, who was accused on Monday of using a fake $20 bill, arrested and died in police custody while being held to the ground by the knee of a police officer. While actions during the day in L.A. were largely peaceful, as night fell destruction of public property, almost exclusively retail establishments, began, along with widespread looting.⁣ ⁣ Tap the link in bio for more. ⁣⁣ ⁣⁣ Report: Kali Hays and Rosemary Feitelberg with contributions from Kristin Larson, David Moin ⁣ ⁣ 📸: @bucknerphoto ⁣ —⁣ #wwdfashion⁣ #wwdbusiness ⁣ #protests

WWD(@wwd)分享的貼文 於 張貼

面對這些抗議,運動品牌巨頭NIKEAdidas迅速對抗議活動給予支持,即便他們自家商店也遭到了洗劫。但是到目前為止,只有少數的時尚品牌發表了聲明,LV男裝創意總監Virgil發表了他製作的影片並說道:「MAKE A CHANGE. FREEDOM FROM RACISM TOWARDS PEACE TOGETHER. #BlackLivesMatter」,Gucci發表了黑人藝術家Cleo Wade的詩:「We need to end racism. Start by healing it in your own family.」,Micheal Kors也發表一些支持非裔美籍人士的人權,但更多的品牌則是在此刻選擇保持沉默。

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Words by @cleowade

Gucci(@gucci)分享的貼文 於 張貼

我們能在時尚界找到許多由黑人文化中得到獲利的例子,但諷刺的是,時尚產業並沒有因此而藉其龐大的影響力為這個族群發聲。大集團與品牌不應該只是為了股東或消費者的好惡而存在,他們應該對廣泛的利益相關者以及整個社會都有責任。然而時尚產業在很大的程度上,仍舊是屬於白人的行業,擔任設計總監的黑人不僅屈指可數,CEO更是幾乎沒有,種種的現象都讓人不禁省思這個產業是否應該做出負起責任的承諾。

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📝✨®

@ virgilabloh 分享的貼文 於 張貼

「我明白人們受到傷害,如果搶走這些商品可以洗去你們的悲痛,我可以犧牲,但你們若不利用這次抗議發聲,今晚玻璃破裂時,你們將遭到判刑。」RSVP Gallery負責人Don C即使自家店面遭到示威抗議者的破壞,但他仍然聲援此次行動。但隨著抗議行動越演越烈,甚至在許多地區已經淪為暴動。站出來為種族人權發聲是勢在必行,但若是帶著趁火打劫的心態在參與行動,那不僅辜負許多前人在人權路上所做的努力,也會讓佛洛伊德的死由悲劇淪落為一場鬧劇。

喜歡威士忌多於調酒,喜歡美式多於拿鐵,基於原味的堅持,忠於事物的本質。